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This is a Cartier 18kt gold gentlemans
dress pocket watch which was made in Paris, circa 1920. The case which housed the movement
was made from a solid piece of rock crystal quartz which had been faceted and machined to
accept the movement. The jeweler who was having the repair work done learned that only a
very small number of these watches had been made in the Cartier shop. He was told that the
quartz case may have been made using specially designed tools for the project which are no
longer available. Photo #3 shows an inset rim or groove into which a slip ring was
inserted. This concave groove needed to be perfectly round and of exact
tolerances and
contour for the slip ring to fit. The movement was then to be dropped into place within
and on top of the slip ring. The slip ring had 6 places to accept screws. The movement was
then screwed to the slip ring which held the movement in place. The rock crystal also
needed 3 drill holes from the outer edge to the inner edge. One for the stem to pass
through and two for the brackets of the bail over the stem. The outer dimensions of the watch case measures 1 ¾" x 1 ¾". The
thickness of the quartz is 4.0 mm and the thinnest part in the center is .9 mm.
The back of the watch case acts as a quartz window through
which the inner mechanical workings of the movement can be viewed. I wish I had a picture
of that, it was impressive.
Photo 1) This photo shows the original broken watch case.
Photo 2) This photo shows how the watch case needed to be
contoured to accept the slip ring to which the movement was attached.
Photo 3) This photo shows the watch with the movement in
place and the faceted surfaces of the rock crystal showing around the outside edges of the
pocket watch.
The watch was auctioned at Sothebys in 1992.
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