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Restorations & Reproductions
Cartier Pocket Watch Crystal Repair

This photo shows the original broken watch case.

This is a Cartier 18kt gold gentleman’s dress pocket watch which was made in Paris, circa 1920. The case which housed the movement was made from a solid piece of rock crystal quartz which had been faceted and machined to accept the movement. The jeweler who was having the repair work done learned that only a very small number of these watches had been made in the Cartier shop. He was told that the quartz case may have been made using specially designed tools for the project which are no longer available. Photo #3 shows an inset rim or groove into which a slip ring was inserted. This concave groove needed to be perfectly round and of exact tolerances and contour for the slip ring to fit. The movement was then to be dropped into place within and on top of the slip ring. The slip ring had 6 places to accept screws. The movement was then screwed to the slip ring which held the movement in place. The rock crystal also needed 3 drill holes from the outer edge to the inner edge. One for the stem to pass through and two for the brackets of the bail over the stem.

The outer dimensions of the watch case measures 1 ¾" x 1 ¾". The thickness of the quartz is 4.0 mm and the thinnest part in the center is .9 mm.

The back of the watch case acts as a quartz window through which the inner mechanical workings of the movement can be viewed. I wish I had a picture of that, it was impressive.